When I saw this recent pattern release by Style Arc, I thought it would be the perfect project for me to undertake to do something gradual and methodical, to pace myself with. I’d bought some fabric last year from Minerva Crafts to make a Sew Me Something Bianca but ended up using my childhood blanket which I’ll share at another point in time. I used a lawn fabric by Liberty called Sandstorm in the brown colour way and a medium weight fusible interfacing that I didn’t buy especially but was glad to make use of. I decided from the beginning that I didn’t want a fastening (which is easily an option but not indicated in the pattern) as I rarely wear jackets buttoned up as much as making buttonholes is one of my favourite things to do.
The Loren jacket is meant for woven fabrics and doesn’t call for a lining but I wanted to have one so drafted one easily by the method I usually use:
- For fronts, lay the facing pieces on the from jacket piece and trace out line and then add seam allowance
- For back add 2.5cm at the centre back
- For all pieces, shorten by 2.5cm.
- Add 1cm to the sleeve cap and extend shoulders by 1cm.
- Raise the underarm too by 1cm by adding height to the sleeve seam. All these things seem to give a nice trouble free lining that hangs well and feels comfortable and works well for me but you might have other methods you use which yield good results too.
I had in mind something quite slouchy and oversized but still wanted to give certain areas support from the insides so interfaced around all seams, pockets and facings as shown briefly here in the view of the under collar. I also overlocked all edges as the fabric needed it.
Here’s some other notes on construction which may be useful and aren’t called for in the pattern but assumed, which I really rather like as it encourages you to think about it.
To make the roll line for the collar and a break definition in the front when understitching it’s important to switch the side that you’re sewing from at a certain point:
I clip and swap at this point and you can see the stitching at either side. At the left it continues up to the collar and on the right it’s on the lower jacket facing.
The pockets were interfaced and lining pieces attached thus:
A small bit of hand sewing to close the turning out gap is necessary.
The pockets are then pinned and tried (I really struggle with my pocket heights, a sort of nemesis so take my time to get them right nowadays) When sure they’re basted in place and then sewn:
A good pressing is necessary at all stages and especially before lining insertion begins, here are examples around the shoulder, underarm and collar that are given plenty of attention:
The jacket lining is constructed in the same way as the shell with the exception of leaving an 15cm turning gap in one of the side seams which is shown basted here:
I then attached the lining onto the jacket facing leaving a 5cm gap at the bottoms (this aids with the bagging out) and pivoting at the same points I did on the collar construction and accounting for the centre back lining pleat which will give ease of movement. Once inserted, I gave it a press and joined the neck edges of both sections with a row of stitches at the very edge on the underside to keep things in place.
Then I bagged out the lining, first concentrating on the jacket hem edge and facing and then removing my basting in the side seam to turn it out to work on the sleeves. A pin was placed to hold each sleeve whist turning through and prevent twisting.
The pin is then reorientated so that the right sides are together for machine sewing:
After sewing the sleeve hems, everything was then turned back inside the gap and finished off with a spot of ladder stitch on the turning gap and very careful and thorough pressing. It took many short stints of construction for me and I enjoyed the breaking down of the process into manageable chunks.
As a note to my fitting alterations to the pattern, I did a small shoulder adjustment of 2cm and a height adjustment of 5cm