Almost all the things I make have pockets of one form or another and I’m always looking at ways to make them more interesting. Sometimes though, interesting isn’t always what a design requires, sometimes you want a feature to blend in to the background. I had a ready to wear linen tunic that I wore a few months ago and noticed that the patch pocket appeared to float and have no topstitching to secure it and it looked like it was sewn from the inside. Surely that’s impossible? So I had a look around on internetsville and it seems it is indeed a very do-able technique after seeing a video on You Tube by Fashion Design Construction. I’ve used the bluff pocket (so called because it has no visible stitching) a few times now and have done a lined version on my mohair coat as shown above.
The steps below show the process involved and I’ve used a different colour thread so that you can see what’s going on:
As you can see above, this type of pocket needs to have a curved bottom edge and not be squared off like the usual rectangular patch pocket.
Unpick the holding zigzag stitching on the reverse of the garment.
Give the pocket a press and it’s pretty much good to go! For a lined version, the next time I do one I’ll add to this post as I didn’t photograph it at the time. Hope this is of use to fellow pocketphiles.